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There has been some interesting discussions on the boards about the consistancy of this disc. Bottom line was that the more dome the disc had the more stable it is. I have a higher dome opto that runs dead straight for most shots and can be turned over about -1 if I put the heat on it.
The goldline had more consistancy in production from one disc to the next, but they where all just different degrees of understable.
No doubt this is a great disc which ever way you choose to go.
Hmmm odd, I must have one of the understable crop (168g in GL plastic). I can hyzer flip it for a dead straight shot or throw it flat and watch it have a nice lazy/predictable turnover. Still fighting for a spot in my bag against my Leopard, but I like small diameter discs. It might just be a "don't care if I loose it disc" in my bag. I must also add, it is longer than my Leopard though.
For Rivers the general rules of thumb are:
Lighter weights and GL plastic both = more understable
If you get a lightweight gl it's like a busted in roadrunner w a bucket of extra glide
I've just recently figgered out that i can tune my game by throwing different weights of different stability. I got serious about DG during the time of only DX plastic. I always got max weight cuz they lasted longer. With the new plastics lasting forever compared to DX, I can pick a weight of ANY disc that will be just the right stability for my throwing speed. Heavy on the overstable (firebird), lighter on the understable (nuke).
If you give this a shot, you will dominate.
OK, so what I'm getting from this thread is that I want to get a max weight Gold Line to be able to have a straight flight path. On a calm day I can throw, let say a Z Avenger (something that wont "S"), around 300 feet if I throw it flat. So let me know if you think I'm choosing the right plastic and weight, thanks.