not sure....maybe try to throw the Roc differently or I just recently bought a Sirus Sentinel from Millenium. It's a midrange that is "flatter" than a roc so it comes off your hand a little smoother. Or you could try a lighter weight in the teebird or leopard, that might help. I find that the longer you practice with a Roc the more distance you can achieve with more snap and more carry. Good Luck.
Most likely this is not the answer you are looking for, but think ball golf. Use your teebox drive to set up your second shot. For instance you might use your Roc off the teepad. So you can use a full Teebird throw for your second shot or vise versa. Just and idea? I've played a few course were you had to use that vey set up. Midrange off the teepad then a driver or fairway driver for you second shot.
I get your point. sharp edge discs need more snap,and round edge discs need harder throws.How many discs do you want to learn? I think your throws will vary(from your target)less with the rounder edge(less fade or skip).
Once again, you need to take something from ball golf. Your first shot is a setup shot for your second shot. The trick is to stay away from 3/4, 1/2...type of throws (it just takes out another variable). You should try and combine your discs so EVRY throw (if possible) is a FULL throw. It take the guess work out of it. Since I started applying this to my game. It has improved quite a bit. An example of this is a dogleg lft hole at a local course. It's very tight were it doglegs and alot of trouble around this area, but it's a wide open fairway up to the point. So I use my Leopard to drop it in the middle (hopefully) and right before the dogleg. Now I have a nice straight shot to the basket if all goes well. Just give it a try one day.
Just some food for thought.
Shots that are just out of range for a Roc or Buzz...I use a Star TL...good fairway Driver, the beveled edge isn't as pronounced as the longer drivers..it flys fairly straight...perfect for those low ceiling shots...and doesn't skip away as much once it hits the ground.
1...try a lighter weight leopard (or a TL is what I like). With practice I don't think you'll have trouble with the shots you're describing with either of those discs. I think you'll find your results won't be very good if you try to power up that roc or buzzz too much. Actually a sidewinder is another great selection for the range in which I throw a roc, but the ceiling is too low. I throw it about 60% power and it goes very straight.
2...someone else said to put a little anhyzer on the same discs when you throw them slower and this is a good suggestion too. I do this with the TL pretty often at slower speeds, the result is a throw that just flexes a little for a very straight, flat-landing shot...the same distance or farther than my roc depending on what power I throw it.
So don't get locked into throwing a midrange when you feel it's midrange distance. Sometimes the height of the shot warrants something quicker that you can throw lower. Get creative with your fairway drivers on different angles. With practice in this area I don't think you'll need a new disc necessarily.
For drivers this is probably mostly true, but I think this analogy breaks down somewhat in translation to disc golf. For ball golf it's very hard to establish a "feel" because you are striking something with a club. The margin of error is much greater. (when was the last time you took a swing in disc golf and failed to propel the disc anywhere)
In disc golf your putters and most midranges fly straight and true at slower speeds and faster speeds. That is why they are so valuable. So in other words you don't have to hit "full-clubs" with them to make them fly on the line you want.
There also isn't an exact enough translation of numbered clubs into disc golf, nor is there a need. Going back to my comments on "feel;" its much easier to establish a feel for distance in disc golf. I simply throw my disc less hard when I need to... I'll grant that you DO need to be careful when you slow down your throw that you still snap the disc crisply, but with practice it's very possible and certainly necessary on the course.
So I don't think that disc golfers ever need to "lay-up" like ball golfers. There's no real gap in distance consistency like there is in ball golf. If it's a wide-open fairway, I'm always going to try to get as close as possible. If there is a bottle neck at the end of your range or other factors similar, then yes, you are wise to stop short of this and then drive through it with a driver.
Oh, I'm not talking "lay-up" What I'm trying to do is increase my odds for a better upshot or drive depending on the course or hole. If my pull is the same every time (disc dependant of course) I feel more comfortable than trying to slow my arm speed or only have a partial reach back. Also, you are right that there is not a great distance gap between discs (say midranges) It's also not a technique you would use often. but up in NorCal. There is this one course (Penn Valley). Were it's a must on several of the holes. Don't know if thats the way the holes were intended, but you have to throw a midrange or fairway driver off the teepad or your second shot will be in the weed (no pun intended), trees and that nasty manzanita. Now in the interest of full disclosure. Had I not played with a local. It would not have crossed my mind. Thats also implying I have a mind, but thats another story!