What disc WEIGHTS are Appropriate for the Newb to Novice????

I have been changing discs as of late like a newborn gos through diapers.... ONE constant I am finding is that I STARTED off using discs that were to Heavy for me. I am not a weenie, so I tell myself, so I started with 172-175gm discs right from the get go. Now that I have been trying new brands and new plastics, I have been dropping down and found this MAGIC number where the discs have really started doing more of what their ratings say they will. 166GM..... This seems to be my Magic number... Can the small reduction in weight (what the hizzle is a few grams anyway) REALLY make that much difference? I think I SEE that it can, but I am also going from ALL Innova discs to Mostly Discraft and some Lat 64. Is it the weights, or the Manufacturer, or both?? Or None?? 

 

I should say I always keep 1 150 class fairway driver as a tailwind driver (was a 155gm DX Cheetah, Now a 150gm Elite X Surge 150 Class) and turnover disc. Even at Full power, I have always had an EASIER time controlling them.... Even if I have to Hyzer flip them.

[Jeffery Nugent]

lighter weights are easier to throw, dunno why 3-4 grams makes a difference but it does. I've not tried any 150 class discs but I know the discs in the low 160's mostly turnover for me, and I have a noodle arm.

[Nic777]

It amazes me as well that a couple grams can make such a difference. My 167 and 174 gram dx valks for example.

The 174 is less susceptible to crash and burn on a turnover, but the 167 gives me more distance on average.

[Mark Cuban]

Lighter discs fly further but are harder to control. Doesn't matter the manufacturer the weight is the weight . As a beginner I would stick with discs in the low to mid 160's

[Dookville]

It would be like a full size Chevy truck hitting a brick wall vs a Toyota Tacoma. They are both good size trucks, but that extra weight on the Chevy is going to be carrying more inertia. The same is true with a disc, it just carries that much more penetrating power at speed. It can also cause early release if your grip isn't up to power yet.

 

I have some heavy weight stuff in midrange discs, and a few understable molds in heavier weights, but for the most parts I carry plastic in the high 160's. I like to carry a few 150's discs for light touch shots in and around trees as well, and they are a gravity beater on those insane uphill pulls.

 

Start in the low weights on understable discs and then start increasing the weights if you start flipping them. Just make sure you are not breaking form. 

[Jeff Nichols]

In comparison, if the Tacoma is traveling 30-40 mph FASTER, it is carrying more inertia. And that is where I think my problem has been. The Heavier discs (or Chevy Discs) are not getting the spin/snap out of my hand that the mid 160gm discs (Tacoma discs) are. I can FEEL a Difference. I can actually FEEL the discs RIP out of my hand in lighter weights. That is why I think I am having such Better results with the Lighter mid 160gm discs than the 172-175gm discs...

[Jim Coonradt]

My "sweet spot" is at 165 to 167 grams although I have a couple of discs at around 172. I don't go higher than that.

[James Burton]

I like drivers in the 165-168 range myself but prefer midranges in heavier weights because they are way more predictable for me.

[Jeff Nichols]

YES!!! Something I should have stated earlier. Thank you James. I am refering to Drivers in my initial post. Lighter Mids are not very predicatable for me so I stay 170-175gm in my mids also.

[Joshua Knutson]

166 is my ideal driver weight too lol, and 175 or bust for mids and putters, except I always have a 169 Roc.  It was the weight of the Roc I got my 2nd ace with as well as the weight of the driver I got my first ace with (Wahoo lol).  For really understable discs though, I go into the 170s, like the Sidewinder, Vulcan, etc.  Although I do keep a 150 Archangel, it has a predictable sharp turn to it that comes in handy once in awhile.